Cats are now our most popular domestic pets. Some people acquire a cat almost by accident but if you make a conscious decision to get one you should think carefully about what sort of cat you want - short or long haired, pedigree or ordinary 'moggie', etc. Although obtaining a kitten may be a particularly attractive proposition because of its playful and endearing personality, taking on a young cat also involves extra responsibilities.

Where to Get a Kitten

If you decide that you want to get a pedigree kitten, you need to find a breeder and be prepared to pay a substantial sum of money. If your vet does not feel able to 'recommend' a suitable breeder you can contact the General Council of Cat Fanciers (GCCF).

Non-pedigree kittens can often be obtained free, or at least for a nominal amount. Animal welfare charities may ask you to make a donation towards their running costs. Other places to look are the advertisement board in your veterinary practice, newspapers and your local post office or newsagents shop. If you know of a friendly good natured cat in the locality that is about to have kittens it may be worthwhile waiting until they are available. It is not a good idea to obtain a kitten from a pet shop as they often carry diseases and can be very stressed. Try to see a kitten with its mother and brothers and sisters, as it is easier to judge its temperament in a natural setting.

Signs of a Healthy Kitten

If you get a kitten that is already carrying a disease, it may never recover full health and the treatment may be expensive. A healthy kitten will have clear bright eyes, clean nostrils and ears and a shiny coat. If your kitten has runny eyes, sneezing or a nasal discharge it probably has a severe respiratory infection. Being able to see the third eyelid (a membrane in the corner of its eyes nearest the nose) or a dull coat are also signs of ill health. Be careful taking on a kitten with dirty ears which may be infected with bacteria or ear mites or an animal which is thin and has a pot-belly as it may be heavily infected with worms. If you are in any doubt, ask to have the kitten examined by your vet before agreeing to take it on. In any case make an appointment for any new kitten to be examined by your vet on the second or third day in your care. Your vet will check that your kitten is healthy, and give you advice on feeding your cat, vaccination, worming, flea control, microchipping, pet insurance and neutering. Highcliff offer a free health check if you plan to subsequently vaccinate your pet.

Signs of a Good Temperament

A normal kitten should be active, playful and comfortable with people. It is a bad sign if the kitten runs away and hides or appears sleepy all the time. However, kittens do sleep for long periods and it is worthwhile watching it for some time before reaching a decision on whether you want to take it home. Normal kittens suddenly change from being playful to being tired or hungry. A kitten that has interacted with people and other animals in the first eight weeks of life will be able to deal with new situations and owners more easily than one which has been kept in quiet isolation. Early experiences are important for a confident, well-balanced cat. Avoid nervous kittens - they seldom become the outgoing friendly cat that most people want. Choose the kitten to suit your lifestyle. If you have children and dogs try and find a kitten that has previous experience of these.

What to Ask the Previous Owner

Before taking a kitten home find out about the type of care it was getting. Kittens can leave their mothers from about the age of eight weeks and most 'moggies' will not be vaccinated (inoculated) by then. for older kittens, ask which vaccinations it has received if any and you should be given a vaccination record signed by a vet (with details of the kitten's identity). You also need to know whether your kitten has been treated for fleas or worms and what sort of food it has been eating. Feed the same food for a few days, introduce new foods gradually (if you need to) so that your kitten's digestive system does not get too much of a shock and avoid milk which is difficult to digest.

Equipment

Have all the necessary equipment ready before bringing a new kitten into your house. You should have the following: a carrying box, food and water bowls, food, a comfortable bed, a litter tray with litter (preferably the same brand that the kitten has been using so far), a grooming brush or comb. It may also be a good idea to have some toys to keep the kitten amused and a scratching post (made of a material dissimilar to your furniture/ carpets).

Introducing a Kitten to its New Home

The first days away from its mother and littermates are understandably stressful for most kittens. Bouts of diarrhoea are common and should not cause too much alarm. Your kitten will need plenty of love and attention but also time to sleep undisturbed. Toilet training seems to come naturally, providing you offer the kitten a clean litter tray in a relatively secluded spot, but at first you may need to offer some assistance by popping the kitten into the tray after feeding. The feed/water bowls should not be near the litter tray as this will prevent the kitten from using the tray. If there are young children in the house they must not become overexcited or treat the kitten like a toy. On its first night the kitten should be left in its bed with a well-covered hot water bottle to provide comfort without risk of burning its skin. All doors, windows and cat flaps should be shut and the kitten should not be allowed outside for at least 2 weeks until it has completed all its necessary vaccinations, but preferably until it is neutered. It should be gradually introduced to the outside world under supervision.

Interaction with Other Pets in the Household

Until it is fully protected against the common preventable diseases of cats, your kitten should only mix with cats that are already fully vaccinated and known to be healthy. If you have other pet cats or a dog these should be introduced gradually to the kitten. During the first meetings the kitten should be safe and able to escape, whilst the other animals can smell but not touch it. Later your kitten may also need a 'bolt hole', where it can escape if the other pets become aggressive or overly playful. Your old and new pets may never become the best of friends but with care and time they should learn to tolerate each other.

Health Care